I never thought reading a book about sushi would be fun. I do like sushi and enjoy the squishy texture of fresh octopus. I never thought there was a story behind the tuna that topped that little bed of rice. There is a story, and a good one. The Sushi Economy: Globalization and the Making of a Modern Delicacy by Sasha Issenberg is a fun read that moves from flying tuna to wild west tuna ranches. Perhaps this book should be subtitled, “Everything I Ever Wanted to Know About the Tuna Business!”
I began this book as a summer read but the laid back day at the beach became an intense voyage of tuna discovery. Perhaps that’s being a bit too dramatic. Due to the non-fiction nature of this book I would not recommend it for a quick summer diversion. It is well written but intended for a reader that prizes details rather than bodice ripping. Very few books of this nature have the ability to weave facts and data with an interesting story, but Issenberg does. There is no doubt that Issenberg has a love of not just sushi and tuna, but also of globalization. Even thought the focus is certainly on sushi, the book moves more towards a business case study.
On one hand, you have the sushi story. About half of the book details the creation and history of sushi, moving from Japan to the United States. Scattered throughout this section are short focuses on the prized fish of sushi and how it can to be a must have of the sushi chef. Of course I am talking about tuna, bluefin to be exact. I found the path from unwanted fish to most expensive fish interesting, but only because it was being worked into the human angle. From the fishermen to the transporter to the market buyer to the sushi chef; these were the people that made the story come to life. At each stop we get a taste of the global connections and sushi impact made on each person.
The second half of the book moves towards a more businesslike approach, focusing on tuna ranching and pirating. Unfortunately, this is where the book drags a bit. I am all for the exhaustive approach taken by Issenberg, but for some reason these chapters felt dry. This may be more of an effect from the people involved rather than the subject or writing. When we move from the sushi chef to the tuna rancher, much of the charm and spirituality goes away. By the time the illegal tuna ranching gambit is exposed, the reader is left with a heavy handed political statement. Although warranted and needed, the side effect is that the narrative slows.
Even though some parts of The Sushi Economy drag a bit, Issenberg has written a wonderful and complete guide to the history and business of sushi. I enjoyed the voyage the reader is taken on, but just wish the boat could have moved a bit faster towards the end. Aside from that, this was a great book. Even if you have no desire to try sushi or have no love of tuna, the intricacy of the bluefin marketplace are amazing to discover. Business is business, especially when it’s raw.
